Any make-up artist will tell you that their single most vital make-up tool is concealer. Applied with know-how, concealer contributes to a flawless complexion, covering spots and blemishes, spider veins and dark circles and evening out skin tone. Here's how to get the best result.
Choosing the perfect colour
"When purchasing a concealer, the most important thing is to choose a colour that matches your skin tone perfectly," says Rebecca Morrice Williams, make-up artist and founder of Becca cosmetics, a range that specialises in foundations and concealers and has a record 34 concealer shades.
"For a concealer to conceal well, it needs to have a high pigment level and contain mineral oil, as this ensures the product sits on top of the skin and covers, rather than being absorbed into the skin."
Always test a concealer on the skin, then head outside into the daylight with a mirror to check how it looks.
"Find a brand that offers a large range of colours or try mixing your own shade out of two or more colours," says Morrice Williams.
"The correct colour will seem to disappear on the skin, yet eliminate the imperfection."
Eliminating dark circles
To effectively hide dark circles beneath your eyes, Morrice Williams recommends using a concealer that has a creamy consistency, a medium pigment level and a matt finish.
"Beware of using loose powder to set concealer under the eyes, as this can accentuate lines around the eye area," she says. "The best way to ensure an under-eye concealer locks onto the skin is to first apply a silky make-up primer with a high level of silicone." Try Becca Silky Hydrating Primer, $53, or ModelCo Face Base Skin Primer, $28. "This will hydrate and smooth lines and help the concealer adhere well to the skin. Use a synthetic concealer brush to apply the concealer and then press into the skin with the fingertips.
"Don't use a colour that is more than one shade lighter than your foundation or you will end up with 'panda' eyes."
Broken capillaries
The redness of a broken capillary requires a heavy-duty, yellow-based concealer with a high pigment level. Morrice Williams suggests using a pointed fibre brush first to ensure precise application. Then "use your fingertips to lightly press the concealer into the skin and then set it with loose powder."
Freckles and pigmentation
Think carefully before you try to erase a freckly complexion, advises Morrice Williams.
"I believe freckles should not be covered, as they are not blemishes and if the skin is clear, they look very attractive. A heavy layer of concealer or foundation can look far worse and it does take a heavy layer to cover them." For covering pigmented areas, select a colour that is one shade lighter than your foundation colour. Ensure skin is well-moisturised and apply a creamy concealer to the areas that require coverage. "Set with a loose powder and dust a subtle, skin-toned shimmer powder to further illuminate the area," says Morrice Williams.
Tackling pimples
"Make sure spots have healed and are dry, not weeping, or it's impossible to apply make-up to them," says Morrice Williams.
"A blow-dryer on low heat can be used to quickly dry a spot if you have been naughty and squeezed it beforehand.
"Use a pointed brush so you can target your application of concealer to the spot. Then lightly press around the edges with fingers. A yellow-toned shade with a high pigment level and drier consistency will work best. Don't use a colour that is lighter than your skin tone or it will emphasise the pimple. Always set with loose powder so that the concealer stays put. A concealer pencil is also handy for covering spots."
Scars and birthmarks
Using an appropriate concealer and the right application methods, you can realistically diminish the appearance of scars and birthmarks.
"Yellow-based colours are best for covering red scars," says Morrice Williams. "For raised scars, choose a slightly darker shade than your natural skin tone and a lighter shade for indented scars. Apply a matt primer first, such as Becca Mattifying Primer, $54, to help the concealer lock into the scar tissue. A concealer with a drier consistency will also adhere better and last longer. Once again, you'll find that a highly pigmented concealer is necessary to cover scars and birthmarks. The trick is to find the perfect colour. As always, set concealer with some loose powder."
The right equipment
A good quality brush is by far the most effective tool to apply concealer, particularly on small areas. Try the Laura Mercier Concealer Brush, $48, Becca Spot Concealer Brush, $36, or Becca Eye Concealer Brush, $38.
The top 10
1. Becca Compact Concealer Medium and Extra Cover: $49
A two-in-one package: one formula gives sheer, medium coverage; the other is drier and more heavily pigmented.
Good for: dark circles, all blemishes, scars, birthmarks.
2.
Laura Mercier Undercover: $42
Combining Mercier's famous Secret Camouflage (for heavy coverage) and creamy Secret Concealer in one compact.
Good for: dark circles, all blemishes, scars, birthmarks.
3. YSL Touche Eclat: $75
This pen-style concealer with brush applicator distributes light-reflecting coverage.
Good for: dark circles, fine lines and blemishes.
4.Cargo OneBase Concealer + Foundation In One: $35
A low-fuss option providing light-to-medium all-over coverage, with avocado oil, vitamin E and aloe.
Good for: all-over cover for minor imperfections.
5.
Clinique Airbrush Concealer: $40
This pen's brush gives moist, medium coverage. Optical diffusers help ‘blur' lines.
Good for: pigmentation, dark circles, fine lines. Easy to use.
6.
Jane Iredale Disappear: $48
Blends heavy pigment with nourishers and antioxidants like seaweed and green tea.
Good for: major imperfections such as scars, birthmarks, tattoos.
7
Estée Lauder Prime FX Pro Concealment Kit: $50
A compact case with a yellow corrector to neutralise red, red corrector to hide circles and dark spots, hydrating line diffuser and setting powder.
Good for: dark circles, pigmentation, capillaries.
8
Prescriptives Camouflage Cream: $35
A weightless, creamy formula that doesn't crease: also good as a primer for eye shadow.
Good for: dark circles, pigmentation and blemishes.
9.
Shiseido The Makeup Concealer: $43
This moisturising liquid glides easily on the skin, giving high-tech, medium coverage.
Good for: dark circles, spots and blemishes.
10.
Rimmel Clear Complexion Cover Stick: $8.95.
This creamy stick is great value, targeting pimples with anti-bacterial agents that help prevent their reappearance.
Good for: acne and pimples.
Home