Bright spark

Bright ideas for radiant, even-toned skin.

Skin tone
There's a good reason to be concerned about the quality of your skin tone. "A clear, even-coloured complexion is far more important than wrinkles," says Melbourne dermatologist Dr Greg Goodman, referring to a recent study by scientists in Germany and Austria which has shown that facial skin tone alone can add, or subtract, as much as 20 years to our appearance.

The researchers took photos of 169 women aged 10 to 70 and used digital imagery to superimpose each subject's facial skin over a standard bone structure. Other ageing features such as wrinkles or furrows were removed, leaving skin tone as the only variable. Then 430 participants were asked to estimate the age of the faces.

According to Dr Goodman, the results suggest that a blotchy, uneven skin is probably the most telltale sign of ageing.

Fortunately, there are lots of ways to improve skin tone — but good results do require some effort, says Matty Samaei, owner of Sydney's Karma Medispa. "Best results come from combining treatments such as microdermabrasion or peels with whitening masks or serums plus appropriate home care and diligent use of sunscreen," she says.

Uneven pigmentation
Sun exposure is the main trigger of uneven pigmentation. However, several factors make the skin more susceptible to producing uneven pigment when UV rays hit. These include stress, pregnancy, the Pill, some antibiotics, skin irritants such as fragrance and trauma to the skin, such as a mosquito bite or squeezed pimple.

In surgery or salon
All treatments mentioned are carried out by dermatologists, cosmetic clinics, medispas, salons and spas, depending on your state's regulations.

The Fraxel laser is a new laser treatment that works by punching hundreds of very tiny needle-sized holes in the skin. Skin may be a little red and swollen for a couple of days. The skin responds to the treatment by increasing production of new collagen, resulting in plumper, more even skin.

Difficult-to-treat pigmentation on the face, neck and décolletage costs around $400-$1000, depending on the size of the area. Three to five treatments may be needed, around two weeks apart.

Photorejuvenation in the form of IPL (intense pulsed light) or laser uses a light source that is attracted to skin pigment and zaps it with a burst of heat. Over a few days, the pigment breaks up and begins to disappear. General radiance is improved, too, as the treatment stimulates collagen.

Moderate to severe pigmentation and general sun damage costs around $1000 for five treatments, taken about three weeks apart.

Microdermabrasion uses fine crystals to sandblast away the top layer of skin cells to refine skin tone and add radiance. This more affordable option is a good way to keep pigmentation at bay and brighten skin on a regular basis. It works well followed with a lightening mask or serum.

Mild-to-moderate pigmentation and general radiance boosting costs around $120 a treatment.

Light to medium peels such as Jessner peels are another method of exfoliating the top layers of the skin. A day or so after the treatment, there is some flaking of the skin, which may appear sunburnt. It is often used in conjunction with whitening masks or serums.

Mild to moderate pigmentation and general radiance-boosting costs around $150 a treatment.

At home
At-home products designed to whiten and brighten the skin can give great results, says Emma Hobson, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute, but only if used correctly.

"You need to exfoliate regularly and you must avoid sun exposure wherever possible and wear a sunscreen every single day," she says. "Read the instructions carefully: if it says 'use twice daily', you must do so without fail to gain results."

Cleanse
The Body Shop Moisture White Cleansing Powder, $31.95, and Toning Essence, $38.95. Lancôme Blanc Expert Neuro White Advanced Whitening Purifying Foam, $52.

Treat
Priori Even Tones Serum with Idebenone, $190. Clinique Derma White C10 Anti-aging Clarity Formula, $80. John Plunkett's Superfade Original Cream, $24.95.

Moisturise
Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Protective Moisturizer, $70. Skin Doctors Cosmeceuticals White Advanced Lightening Complex, $49.95.

Mask
Murad Environmental Shield Vitamin C Infusion Home Facial Kit, $169.50. Biotherm Pure Bright Exfoliating Brightening Mask, $59. Peel MD Formulations My Personal Peel System, $150. L'Oréal Paris Dermo-Expertise ReNoviste Anti-Ageing Glycolic Peel Kit, $39.95.

Fact file

• At the recent 5th World Congress of the International Academy of Cosmetic Dermatology in Melbourne, reports on new research revealed some interesting information about the development of solar keratoses, or sun spots.

• Smoking doubles your chance of getting sun spots.
• Decreasing the fat content in your diet from 40 percent to 20 percent of your kilojoule intake decreases sun spots by 70 percent.
• Long-range UVA rays (against which sunscreens are unable to protect your skin) are the most immuno-suppressive ultraviolet rays, causing sun spots and cancers.