With everyday skincare, rules apply, writes Kate Lovelace.
Rule one: simplify your beauty routine
Do you use too many active skincare products at once?
Why it's bad
- If you're using several anti-ageing products at once, you could be over-dosing on retinols (vitamin A) and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), which may cause the skin to react.
- If you're self-prescribing, you might not be using the best formulas for your skin type.
What to do
- Use active ingredients with caution
- Speak with a consultant before buying new skincare.
- Take note of what's in your current skincare to avoid doubling up on ingredients.
- Test new products behind the ear or under the jawline.
- Aim to use up the whole tub or tube to see if a product is really working for you.
Rule two: don't over-cleanse
You adore the feeling of squeaky-clean skin and cleanse at every chance.
Why it's bad
- "Over-zealous cleansing actually exacerbates an oily skin problem," says cosmetic physician Dr Sarah Freilich.
- If we strip away surface oils, the skin responds by producing even more oil.
- It removes skin-protective bacteria, making you more susceptible to infection.
- Over-cleansing and over-exfoliating can make skin prone to sensitivity.
What to do
- Only use a foaming cleanser if your skin is oily.
- Avoid overly astringent toners that dry the skin.
- Don't cleanse more than twice a day or exfoliate more than twice a week.
- Replace harsh scrubs with a peel-off mask (which removes dead cells) or one with exfoliating fruit enzymes (such as papaya), plus hydrating ingredients.
Rule three: stop squeezing pimples
As soon as a spot appears, you just can't keep your hands away.
Why it's bad
- "Squeezing pimples damages the skin and makes pimples worse," says dermatologist Dr Jo-Ann See.
- By rupturing the follicle you release irritants into the skin that cause further inflammation, which can result in scarring.
- Some skin types develop permanent hyperpigmentation in the area as a reaction to this kind of trauma.
What to do
If you're prone to pimples use specialised skincare.
When temptation arises, dab on a topical blemish-zapper in place of squeezing.
If a large pimple appears before an important occasion, ask your GP or dermatologist for a shot of cortisone, which reduces inflammation and makes spots disappear fast.
Do you really have sensitive skin?
Does your skin react:
- A every time you use a skincare product
- B sometimes
- C only with a certain product
If you answered B or C , it's unlikely that your skin is truly sensitive. If you don't have a history of allergies, it could just be that you're not treating your skin properly. "Sun damage or over-use of products can weaken the skin's barrier function," warns Dr See.
Stop using all products for one month, except a gentle cleanser and a water-based cream sold at pharmacies. Then re-introduce other products, one at a time.
Beauty swaps
- Avoid using soap which dries the skin; instead, choose a mild shower gel.
- Replace harsh scrubs with a gentle peel-off mask or enzyme exfoliant.
- Trade anti-ageing skincare for one item that's professionally prescribed for you.
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